Men: A growing aesthetic segment

How does male facial anatomy and contour contribute to male beauty and masculinity? How do neuromodulator and filler dosages vary between male and female cosmetic patients? Are men open to cosmeceuticals? And is this the male cosmetic patient a market worth pursuing for dermatology practices? Dermatologist experts answered these and other questions during today’s “Mennaissance” session at the 2016 American Society for Dermatologic Surgery (ASDS) annual meeting in New Orleans.

One of the presenters, Terrence Keaney, M.D., assistant clinical professor of dermatology at George Washington University, Washington, DC, tells Dermatology Times that the male cosmetic market could be big business for dermatologists.

Dr. Keaney“It is a growing segment that will continue to grow as more cosmetically-inclined millennial men age. It is also a market that many physicians are not prioritizing, allowing physicians [who do pursue it] to differentiate themselves from their competitors,” Dr. Keaney says.

So, how does male facial anatomy and contour contribute to male beauty and masculinity? Dr. Keaney says the male facial shape tends to be square, with more lateral projection at the cheeks and less anterior/medial cheek projection.

“The idea of the ‘triangle of youth’ or ‘heart-shaped face’ applies to the female facial contour; not male. Male beauty is not well defined, since studies have demonstrated that a too masculine facial shape appears angry [or] threatening, while a too feminine shape appears soft and feminine,” he says. “Thus, the ideal male facial shape is like Goldilocks’ porridge: not too masculine; not too feminine.”

As for neuromodulators and fillers and the male cosmetic patient, Dr. Keaney says that men often require a higher dose of neuromodulators and different injection patterns.

“When treating the male upper face, it is important not to arch the male eyebrow, which can be feminizing,” he says.

Dr. Keaney says he often use higher G' dermal fillers, which are more structural and provide sharper lines for a “chiseled” look, rather soft curves.

“I inject the cheeks lower and lateral in order to avoid creating a high cheek apex. Dermal fillers are also effective in the lower face in men by providing definition to the jawline,” he says. “Age-related changes around the eyes are one of the biggest cosmetic concerns in men. I often combine neuromodulators to ‘open the eyes,’ and dermal fillers to treat the tear troughs in men.”

The answer to the cosmeceutical question: Not only are men open to using cosmeceuticals but they might need them more than women.

“There is data that suggests that men have decreased antioxidant capacity,” he says. “I make sure every male patient walks out with an antioxidant and sunscreen. If my male patients are reluctant to adopt this basic, starter regimen, I discuss the high rates of skin cancer and poor melanoma outcomes in men.”

Disclosure: Dr. Keaney is a consultant, advisory board member and speaker for Allergan and is an advisory board member for Merz.