Adjunctive Dermocosmetic Therapy Reduces Sensitivity and Improves Quality of Life for Patients with Acne

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A novel study explored the potential of dermocosmetics as adjunctive therapy for holistic acne management.¹ The addition of a cleanser and lotion can enhance patient tolerability and sensitivity while reducing the adverse effects associated with retinoids such as erythema, scaling, dryness, and burning.

The prospective, multicenter, observational study took place across 13 clinics in Seoul, South Korea. Of the 304 patients, 55.9% were female. The mean age of the sample was 26.4. Participants were then split up into a retinoid group (n = 157) and a non-retinoid group (n = 147) based on their treatment history.

For 12 weeks, investigators added a standardized dermocosmetic routine of a foaming face wash and moisturizer to an existing therapy of benzoyl peroxide, tretinoin, adapalene, trifarotene, azelaic acid, adapalene, clindamycin, or oral isotretinoin.

Using the Global Acne Grading System, dermatologists assessed each patient’s dosage and frequency along with the amount of sebum production and the type (comedonal, inflammatory, mixed, nodulocystic) and location of acne. It was also noted if a participant had scarring, post-inflammatory erythema, and/or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

The cleanser, which was used twice daily, included Bixa orellana seed extract, niacinamide 2%, mannose, and Aqua Posae Filiformis as its ingredients. The corresponding lotion formulation, applied once a day, included Bixa orellana seed extract, plant extract, 2% niacinamide, panthenol, and Aqua Posae Filiformis.

The primary endpoint was the changes in skin sensitivity for both retinoid and non-retinoid users. Investigators used a 4-point scale to analyze sensitivity, erythema, desquamation, and dryness. Patients also recorded their own experience with any itching, tingling, burning, and pain as well as overall satisfaction and tolerance levels.

The secondary endpoint utilized patient reporting to assess acne’s impact on quality of life based on specific areas of the face including the T-zone, hairline, cheeks, and chin. Researchers hoped to better understand the psychological burden of acne and how the location can impact that. Some studies have indicated that acne’s negative impact on quality of life can be just as severe as other chronic conditions like asthma, epilepsy, and back pain.²

“Effective acne management strategies should not only target clinical improvement but also prioritize QoL improvements,” the authors wrote. “One crucial aspect of this is mitigating the adverse effects of acne treatment, particularly the dryness and irritation commonly associated with retinoids, which can lead to treatment discontinuation and ultimately hinder clinical success.”

Skin sensitivity improved in both groups, but the retinoid cohort saw a greater improvement compared to the non-retinoid one (−0.88 [CI: −0.97, −0.79] vs. −0.57 [CI: −0.66, −0.49], respectively). Acne severity and sebum secretion also decreased in both groups but more so in the retinoid one (−2.49 [CI: −2.73, −2.25] vs. −1.41 [CI: −1.58, −1.25], respectively).

Additionally, those in the retinoid group had higher baseline scores for erythema, desquamation, and dryness, “indicating a trend toward greater baseline sensitivity,” according to the authors. Patient-reported itching, tingling, and burning were also reduced in all participants but there was no statistical difference between the 2 groups.

Before treatment, the overall QoL score was 14.24. The presence of acne on the cheeks showed a more negative score compared to areas like the T-zone. After dermocosmetic therapy, QoL increased to 17.87. This improvement was seen on all sections of the face, with the most substantial increase noted on the cheeks.

As for limitations, using subjective patient-reported outcomes may increase the potential for bias. Additionally, it can be difficult to establish causal relationships due to the study's observational design. Randomized controlled trials with longer follow-up periods and larger sample sizes can further explore these findings.

“By incorporating ingredients designed to fortify the skin barrier, reduce inflammation, and support a healthy skin microbiome, dermocosmetics may provide a synergistic approach to improving patient comfort and optimizing treatment outcomes,” the authors concluded.

References

1. Suh DH, Kim TE, Lee SJ, Jeong SJ, Baek E, Shin MK. Enhanced Tolerability and Improved Outcomes in Acne Management: A Real-World Study of Dermocosmetic Adjunctive Therapy. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2025;24(1):e16772. doi:10.1111/jocd.16772

2. Akinboro AO, Ezejiofor OI, Olanrewaju FO, et al. The impact of acne and facial post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation on quality of life and self-esteem of newly admitted Nigerian undergraduates. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2018;11:245-252. Published 2018 May 10. doi:10.2147/CCID.S158129