Innovative Advances in Skin Cleansing with Zoe Diana Draelos, MD

A recent study published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology investigated the efficacy and tolerance of a polymeric surfactant technology-based cleanser for clinically diagnosed sensitive skin.¹ Following its publication, Dermatology Times spoke with lead author Zoe Diana Draelos, MD, about the study itself, its findings, and how this could affect future research.

Draelosis a consulting professor of dermatology at Duke University School of Medicine in Durham, North Carolina, and Dermatology Times’ editor in chief emeritus.

Understanding the Need for Improved Cleansers

Draelos noted that one of the primary issues with conventional cleansers is the tight, uncomfortable sensation that follows cleansing, often mistaken for thoroughness. She points out that this tightness signifies the beginning of skin damage; "Many cleansers are formulated at a slightly alkaline pH that penetrates the skin," Draelos noted. The goal of the new cleansing technology is to provide an effective and aesthetically pleasing product that does not irritate sensitive skin conditions, such as rosacea, eczema, and cosmetic intolerance syndrome. The innovative hydrophobically modified polymers used in this new technology are designed to remain on the skin's surface, preventing irritation while ensuring effective cleansing.

Comprehensive Testing and Versatile Applications

Draelos emphasizes the importance of broad testing for cleansers to ensure dermatologists can confidently recommend them. The study included individuals with a range of sensitive skin issues, allowing for a comprehensive understanding of how the new cleanser performs across different conditions. The findings suggest that this mild cleanser can be suitable for individuals with varying skin sensitivities, enabling more frequent bathing without the fear of damaging the skin barrier.

Furthermore, Draelos notes that the aesthetic quality of a cleanser is crucial; if consumers do not enjoy using a product, they are unlikely to continue its use. "A lot of people had to use cleansers that didn't foam, and while foaming isn't necessary for cleansing, it is necessary for people's aesthetic feeling of clean," she said. "Combining the aesthetics with the technology, the cleansing efficacy and the formulation, I think that's really the future of this whole arena of skincare."

The new polymeric surfactants create a foaming action that enhances user experience without compromising skin integrity. Additionally, the formulation includes natural ingredients like sodium hydrolyzed potato starch, glycerin, and hyaluronic acid, which further supports skin hydration and minimizes irritation. "These ingredients support skin hydration and minimize irritation," Draelos said.

Conclusion: A New Era in Dermatological Cleansing

The advancements in cleansing technology, as discussed by Draelos, signify a shift towards more effective and user-friendly skincare products. By focusing on both functionality and user satisfaction, the new generation of cleansers addresses the common trade-offs between efficacy, mildness, and aesthetics. As research continues, there are promising opportunities for applying these polymeric surfactants across various cleansing products, from facial cleansers to body washes. Ultimately, this innovation aims to meet the diverse needs of individuals with sensitive skin, enhancing their daily hygiene routines without compromising their skin health.

Reference

1. Draelos ZD, Hussain R, Smith H, et al. Efficacy and tolerance of a polymeric surfactant technology-based cleanser for clinically diagnosed sensitive skin. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(10):889-893. doi:10.36849/JDD.2024.8510