Novel Serum Improves Overall Skin Quality With No Adverse Events

To assess the efficacy and safety of a combination of antioxidants on protecting the skin from environmental factors, researchers conducted a prospective, open-label study of vitamin C, astaxanthin, fermented turmeric, and vitamin E.¹ Konisky et al found that the topical formulation resulted in an improvement in skin quality at the end of 12 weeks.

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The study of healthy female participants ages 35 to 60 years with mild to moderate fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin tone with Fitzpatrick skin types I to VI included dry, normal, combination, and oily skin. Participants in the single-center, single-blind study applied the serum combining tetrahexyldecyl (THD) ascorbate (vitamin C), 3-O-Ethyl ascorbic acid, fermented turmeric, astaxanthin, and tocopherol (vitamin E) twice daily for 12 weeks. The serum, Asta C Vitamin C Age Defense Serum (Dr. Whitney Bowe Beauty), is designed to fight free radical damage and improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation.

Participants completed a 1-week washout period using only a gentle cleanser prior to the start of the study, and throughout the study period, they used their own moisturizer and sunscreen but no other skin care products. Participants kept a home-use diary to track their compliance with use of the serum. Clinical grading assessments were performed at weeks 0, 2, and 12, and 26-question self-perception questionnaires were done at weeks 2 and 12.

Professional clinical photographs of 10 patients were taken of the face, neck, and chest at weeks 0, 2, and 12, and a clinical expert performed visual and tactile grading in categories such as overall skin appearance, skin aging, fine lines, wrinkles, redness, and elasticity. Of the 33 participants who were enrolled in the study, 32 completed the 12-week trial.

Assessments of overall skin quality, overall appearance of aging, global fine lines, radiance, texture, redness, firmness, hyperpigmentation, and global wrinkles of the face, neck, and chest showed visible improvement from baseline to week 12. Improvement in fine lines was statistically significant, showing a 10.4% improvement at week 2 and a 19.6% improvement at week 12, with 100% of participants demonstrating improvement.

Deeper wrinkles showed a 9% improvement at week 12 from baseline, with 81.3% of participants showing improvement. “The face showed the greatest improvement in texture, with 81.3% of participants displaying a decrease in clinical grade by 1 point or more.”

Skin firmness increased by 10.9% from baseline to week 12, and 81% of participants displayed significant improvement in the appearance of elasticity and firmness. Skin radiance increased 26.6% over the study period with 100% of participants showing significant improvement.

Participants reported that the study vehicle was gentle enough for daily use and worked well with other skin care products. There were no significant adverse events. Limitations of the study included the small sample size and lack of a control group.

“Overall, the current clinical study demonstrates that Asta C is safe, well-tolerated, and effective in improving overall skin quality, as well as the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, radiance, and hyperpigmentation of the skin,” concluded Konisky et al. In addition, the product was gentle and effective on delicate skin of the neck.

Reference

1. Konisky H, Bowe WP, Yang P, Kobets K. A clinical evaluation of the efficacy and tolerability of a novel topical antioxidant formulation featuring vitamin C, astaxanthin, and fermented turmeric. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2023;00:1-7. doi:10.1111/jocd.15967