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Topical treatments with plant extracts improved skin hydration and elasticity while reducing melanin and erythema.
According to a recent meta-analysis, topical products with plant-based ingredients are safe and effective when it comes to reducing anti-aging.1 Within a treatment duration of ≤ 8 weeks, botanical products demonstrated improvement in skin hydration and elasticity while reducing melanin and erythema.
This comprehensive review utilized plant-based interventions and skin aging research from PubMed, Embase, Web of Science, and the Cochrane Library (CENTRAL). All articles were published between January 2000 and December 2024. As criteria, investigators analyzed the type of research interventions and outcome measures, all involving topical therapies rather than oral. Out of 3453 publications, 8 randomized controlled trials were included.
These studies involved a total of 396 participants from 7 countries in Europe and Asia. Most patients were female, and all were between the ages of 15 and 65. Each suffered from skin problems such as dullness, dark circles, and pigmentation. Each piece of literature was evaluated with the Cochrane Risk of Bias Tool and statistical analysis was performed. All studies had specific data, thus having a low risk for reporting bias.
Compared to placebo, skin elasticity was increased significantly among all trials (SMD 1.10; 95% CI, 0.24–1.95; p = 0.01). However, these effects did not improve after 8 weeks of treatment, thus negating its long-term efficacy (SMD 1.75; 95% CI, −1.63 to 5.12, p = 0.31) Similar results were noted in skin hydration with a significant increase observed (SMD 0.57; 95% CI, 0.06–1.09, p = 0.03). After > 8 weeks, no correlation was recorded (SMD 0.70; 95% CI, −0.50 to 1.90, p = 0.25). Hydration was measured with the Corneometer CM 835 and the products were applied as either an emulsion or a cream.
The studies that measured melanin index used plant-based creams and measured levels using the Mexameter on the cheek. In all trials, melanin levels were significantly reduced (SMD −0.67; 95% CI, −0.95 to −0.39, p < 0.00001). The Mexameter was also the standard measurement tool in observing erythema and found a statistical difference when using plant extracts (SMD = −1.17, 95% CI: −2.26 to −0.08, p = 0.04).
A category that did not show promising results was transepidermal water loss (TEWL). No statistically significant differences in reducing TEWL were recorded between plant-based products and the placebo (SMD 0.05; 95% CI −0.43 to 0.54, p = 0.83).
No adverse events were reported in any of the studies, making these products safe for topical application. The authors did note that more research is needed to confirm their mechanisms of action.
Researchers did note some limitations including the low number of applicable studies used along with the relatively small sample sizes. Additionally, none of the studies measured other sociological factors such as patient diet and lifestyle choices, which could have a possible impact.
The potent antioxidants of plant extracts, like saponins, flavonoids, quercetin, and polyphenols, are what help to maintain the youthful appearance of skin.2 This is the most comprehensive literature to date that summarizes the effects of these botanical preparations.
Further research can help determine which specific plants have the most dramatic effect on skin aging. These studies should include larger sample sizes and high-quality methodologies that address all aspects of aging, including ones that were not included in this study (ie, depth of wrinkles, minimal erythema dose).
“We hope that as attention to skin aging continues to grow, more trials will be conducted, and more data will emerge to support the beneficial effects of plants and plant extracts on markers associated with skin aging,” the authors wrote. “Consequently, more effective and safer plant extract products will enter the market to improve skin aging.”
References
1. Cheng F, Feng J, Cao Z, Duan Q, Li H. Efficacy and Safety of Topical Application of Plant-Based Products on Skin Aging in Healthy Individuals: A Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis of Randomized Controlled Trials. J Cosmet Dermatol. Published online December 9, 2024. doi:10.1111/jocd.16710
2. Chuarienthong P, Lourith N, Leelapornpisid P. Clinical efficacy comparison of anti-wrinkle cosmetics containing herbal flavonoids. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2010;32(2):99-106. doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00522.x