Raising the bar: Examining the cornerstones of sophisticated chemical peel

San Felice del Benaco, Italy - By optimizing the interaction between skin physiology and peeling acids, the Enerpeel (General Topics) peeling system appears to be more efficient than other chemical peels currently available on the market, achieving better cosmetic results with little to no downtime, according to one expert.

"This is a new and more efficient approach to treating many different cosmetic thorns of the skin, including mild to moderate acne scarring, seborrhea, wrinkles, fine lines, hyperpigmented lesions and scars.

"Enerpeel’s specially engineered chemical peeling solutions are non-toxic and non-phototoxic and prove to be very useful in cosmetic medicine and raise the bar in chemical peel technology," says Gianfranco de Paoli Ambrosi, Pharm.D., president of General Topics, San Felice del Benaco, Italy.

Classic peels

Classic chemical peels are engineered to remove the water-soluble components of the skin, which is commonly associated with discomfort, prolonged erythema and scabbing.

According to Dr. de Paoli Ambrosi, the specially engineered formulation of Enerpeel makes it unique among the chemical peels because it is capable of increasing proton availability at the hydrophilic level, counteracting the barrier that is represented by horny layer lipids.

"Due to its combined hydrophilic and lipophilic affinity, Enerpeel can achieve a safer and more effective peel when compared to other standard peeling systems," Dr. de Paoli Ambrosi says.

The secret to the success of Enerpeel is found in its patented vehicle solution that ensures an even distribution and diffusion through both the lipophilic and hydrophilic structures in the skin.

The sequestering of the lipid component of the cells is one of the keys in Enerpeel’s effectiveness, as this component is believed to be the major cause of skin shedding. Each peel can be tailored individually to the patient’s skin type using the Glogau/Fitzpatrick assessment index. Therefore, there are no variations in when to neutralize the applied solution.

"The Enerpeel is very effective in producing a more homogeneous frosting. If you have a more homogeneous absorption, we reduce the possibility of the probability of getting a deeper frosting in some areas of the skin," Dr. de Paoli Ambrosi says.

The Enerpeel solutions are based on organic acids in various combinations and strengths including trichloracetic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, pyruvic acid and glycolic acid. On the electrochemical level, acids are compounds that are able to donate a proton, the positively charged atom of hydrogen. Organic acids are characterized by the presence of the carboxyl group that is able to donate a proton.

"It is the mobility of the protons and its conductivity within the aqueous network, defining the strength of acid solutions that is central to the effectiveness of the peel," Dr. de Paoli Ambrosi says.

The level of mobility of protons in an aqueous solution depends on the special water molecule network that is due to existing hydrogen bonds. The Grotthus mechanism is the mechanism by which an "excess" proton diffuses through the hydrogen bond network of water molecules or other hydrogen-bonded liquids through the formation/cleavage of covalent bonds. The proton interacts with one molecule of water forming the oxonium ion, and the formation of this ion changes the way it interacts with the proteins in the skin.

The oxonium ion inflicts a chemical insult in the dermis and epidermis, causing a break up the desmosomal connections and adhesion proteins in the latter. This results in the detachment of keratinocytes, enhancing epidermal cell turnover. The keratinocytes react by producing interleukin 1-alpha, which in turn stimulates the fibroblasts to produce hyaluronic acid and collagen. Interleukin 1-alpha also up-regulates the release of interleukin-6, which then synthesizes matrix metaloproteinases that degrade the fibrous structure of the matrix.

"The Enerpeel technology causes the Grotthus movement to slow down, resulting in a reduced mobility of protons called ‘sleeping’ protons. In order to wake up these ‘sleeping’ protons, only water is needed and ample supply can be found in the skin," Dr. de Paoli Ambrosi says.

The horny layer contains approximately 10 percent to 30 percent water and the epidermis and dermis about 80 percent. The mobility of the proton increases when interacting with this water.

"Not only is the concentration of the protons important but also their mobility to perform an efficient hydrolysis of the peptide links, resulting in a better chemo-exfoliation, as well as a down-regulation of erythema leading to reduced to no downtimes," Dr. de Paoli Ambrosi says. DT

Disclosure: Dr. de Paoli Ambrosi is the president of General Topics.