The Mainstream Patient: April 3

New this week: Allure considers how plastic surgery has not always welcomed patients with skin of color and Elle asks if the beauty industry is finally fairly recognizing black-owned brands. NewBeauty reviews the power of glycerin with dermatologists and InStyle talks about the 16 best acne serums for clear skin. Women's Health discusses face washes for sensitive skin with Joshua Zeichner, MD, and Self lists the 16 best mineral sunscreens according to dermatologists.

Plastic Surgery Hasn't Always Welcomed Black Folks — It's Time for a Shake-Up

"When Steven Williams, MD, was a plastic surgery resident in the early 2000s, nose job essentials included a scalpel, a nasal speculum, and a mold depicting the size and shape the post-surgery nose should be. That shape was small with a ski jump"' nose bridge and 'a very narrow tip, says Dr. Williams, a board-certified plastic and reconstructive surgeon in Dublin, California, and president-elect of the American Society of Plastic Surgeons (ASPS). "It was considered the classic nose." It was also entirely Eurocentric."

Is the Beauty Industry Finally Playing Fair With Black-Owned Brands?

"Beauty and grooming rituals have long been a part of the Black experience. Historically, everything from hairstyling to body art has represented where we come from and to which community we belonged. But then we fast forward to the mid to late 20th century, when many of our beauty choices—while still widely culturally driven—were heavily influenced by the need to conform to white standards of beauty. Not necessarily because we didn’t appreciate our natural features, but because it was a means of survival in the corporate workforce, and a way to thrive in broader society. The only problem? There was a limited supply of beauty products made for our unique needs."

The Power of Glycerin: The Ultimate Skin-Care Ingredient for Hydration

"According to Montclair, NJ, dermatologist Jeanine Downie, MD, glycerin is a humectant, a type of moisturizing agent that pulls moisture out of the air and into your skin. “In skin care, it hydrates the skin, decreases fine lines and wrinkles, and alleviates dry, itchy skin. It’s also good for the hair and the nails, especially for moisturizing the cuticles,” she says. New York dermatologist Dennis Gross, MD, explains that glycerin goes deep into the skin to provide this moisture. 'Because of its small molecular size, it is able to penetrate deep into the skin for hydration benefits in both the epidermis and dermis,' he says. 'Glycerin also has occlusive properties —it helps create a barrier on the skin’s surface that enhances the moisture barrier and prevents moisture loss.'"

The 16 Best Acne Serums of 2023 for Clearer, Brighter Skin

"Acne is one of the most frustrating, stubborn, and, frankly, overwhelming skin concerns to treat. With so many factors at play — what’s the root cause? What type of breakouts are you dealing with? — and so many different types of skincare products to treat this wide range of blemishes, it can be challenging to figure out the best course of action. Yet, the solution is strikingly simple: Serums."

The 12 Best Face Washes For Sensitive Skin, According To A Dermatologist

"Wondering what sensitive skin means, exactly? 'Sensitive skin refers to burning and stinging of the skin when you use personal care products,' explains Joshua Zeichner, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Medical Center in New York City. 'The wrong skincare products easily disrupt the skin barrier in people with sensitive skin, leading to microscopic cracks, loss of hydration, and inflammation.'"

16 Best Mineral Sunscreens, According to Dermatologists in 2023

"There are two types of sunscreen: mineral and chemical. What makes them different from each other comes down to how they protect the skin from the sun’s harmful ultraviolet (UV) rays. 'The key difference involves the active ingredient that’s actually screening the sun,' board-certified dermatologist Jerome Potozkin, MD, founder of PotozkinMD Skincare & Laser Center in California, tells SELF. 'Mineral sunscreens typically have zinc oxide or titanium dioxide [or both]. With the mineral SPF, the sunscreen actually sits on the skin’s surface and reflects the light hitting the skin.” That’s why you’ll sometimes hear mineral sunscreens referred to as 'physical' sunscreens—they form a physical barrier between the skin and the UV rays."