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Renata Block, MMS, PA-C; Ted Lain, MD, MBA, FAAD; Zoe Diana Draelos, MD; and Cheri Frey, MD, FAAD, bust common skin care myths in a Dermatology Times custom video series.
In a recent Dermatology Times DermView custom video series, "Discussing and Dispelling Skincare Myths," Renata Block, MMS, PA-C; Ted Lain, MD, MBA, FAAD; Zoe Diana Draelos, MD; and Cheri Frey, MD, FAAD, busted common skin myths related to anti-aging, cleansers, and sunscreen.
Block, a board-certified physician assistant in Chicago, Illinois, and a Dermatology Times Editorial Advisory Board member, served as the moderator and led her fellow colleagues through a discussion about common skin care myths. The panelists explored the evolving approach to skincare as we shift to more proactive, preventive strategies and products that can reduce anti-aging, heal the skin barrier, and protect from sun damage. By dispelling common myths and discussing these cutting-edge innovations, clinicians can help patients of all ages and skin types maintainlong-term skin health.
Treating Anti-Aging versus Pre-Aging
Lain, Chief Medical Officer of Sanova Dermatology in Austin, Texas, emphasized that preventative and early intervention strategies are key even before visible signs of aging appear. Lain explained the shift toward "pre-aging"—starting skincare early to prevent aging signs, rather than waiting until wrinkles appear. Targeting the "hallmarks of aging," such as DNA methylation and cellular senescence, can slow down or even reverse the aging process.
“If we want to really maintain the elastin, the collagen, the basement membrane, the dermal thickness, the epidermal integrity, the barrier as well, we probably should start in our early 20s, and that's what's happening right now in skincare,” he noted.
Lain also highlighted the role of peptides in skincare, noting how micropeptides help maintain youthful skin by boosting collagen production. Using preventative products, even in one's 20s or teens, can extend the "skin span" to match the body’s health span.
Regarding sensitive skin, Lain discussed how newer retinoid formulations minimize irritation while still offering anti-aging benefits. He stressed that while procedures such as Botox and fillers can address deeper skin layers, they must be complemented by a solid skincare routine to target photoaging and skin surface concerns.
The Importance of Balanced Yet Innovative Cleansers
“Cleansing is probably the most sophisticated physical and chemical activity that you will ever do to your skin,” said Draelos, President and Principal Investigator of Dermatology Consulting Services in High Point, North Carolina, and Dermatology Times’ editor in chief emeritus.
She addressed common skincare myths, particularly the misconception that cleansers are only for removing dirt and play no significant role in overall skin health. As their role in skincare evolves, modern cleansers can do much more, such as preventing skin barrier damage and preserving essential lipids.
“People talk about feeling ‘squeaky clean’ and ‘squeaky clean’ is basically the first sign that you’ve damaged your skin,” she explained.
Advances in cleansing technologies, such as hydrophobically modified polymers, have revolutionized the market by offering gentle yet effective cleansing without the harsh effects of older surfactants. Her recent study found that new cleansers are not only aesthetically pleasing but also safe for sensitive skin, allowing users to cleanse more frequently without irritation.
Draelos highlighted the importance of maintaining a healthy skin barrier, particularly for individuals with sensitive skin conditions such as eczema or rosacea. She also stressed the significance of balancing the cadence of cleansing with other treatments, especially for acne-prone skin, to avoid compromising the skin barrier. The continued innovation in cleanser formulations and education on the essential role cleansing plays in both skin health and anti-aging regimens is very exciting, according to Draelos.
Educating the Benefits of Modern Sunscreens
Frey, an assistant professor of dermatology at Howard University in Washington, DC, delved into the evolving science behind sunscreens. She addressed key misconceptions, particularly the myth that sunscreen is only necessary on sunny days. Frey emphasized the importance of daily sunscreen use for protecting against skin cancer, premature aging, and pigmentation issues, especially in darker skin tones. She also discussed the role of zinc oxide in sunscreens, its proven efficacy in blocking UVA rays, and recent advancements in making zinc-based formulas more cosmetically appealing for all skin types and tones.
Frey also touched on the growing popularity of tinted sunscreens containing iron oxide, which offer protection from visible light—a key contributor to hyperpigmentation in darker skin types. Newer formulations with iron oxide have made sunscreen more user-friendly, combining moisturizing and hydration benefits with photo-protection while addressing patient concerns about skin irritation.
“When we find that formulation that puts those two things together — tints that are going to be more universally acceptable and zinc that is more cosmetically elegant — then you've really hit the sweet spot,” Frey said.
Frey stressed the importance of educating patients about the safety and efficacy of sunscreen ingredients, including chemical sunscreens, and the risks associated with unregulated products purchased online. Using trusted brands with simple formulations will ensure patient satisfaction and proper sun protection while making sunscreen more effective, accessible, and comfortable for diverse patient populations.